The Wine Room @ The Dolphin Hotel, Surry Hills

The Dolphin Hotel in Surry Hills has recently undergone a transformation, closing in October last year and reopening in early June with a schmick new look by Maurice Terzini. The area is split up into the main Dining Room, the Public Bar and the newly opened Wine Room which is where Raff and I found ourselves last Friday.

The main Dining Room is heaving with groups and families sharing pizzas or slow-roasted pork belly but the Wine Room is thankfully more cosy, seating just 50. Executive Chef Monty Koludrovic (Icebergs Dining Room and Bar) and head chef Sam Cheetham (ex-Becasse/Victoria Room) are at the helm of the kitchen of the Wine Room with James Hird (2015 Sommelier of the Year) overseeing the wine offerings.

We start with the Bonito and Foie Gras Crackers ($18). I might be crazy but the crackers remind me of papadums! They were super crisp, slightly garlic-y and the perfect vehicle for the fatty cubes of bonito. And let’s not forget the lip smacking blanket of shaved foie gras which melted on the tongue like snowflakes.

We debated getting some cured meats from the salumeria cabinet with products sourced locally from LP’s Quality Meats, Tony & Robbie De Palma, Continental Deli and Victor Churchill but we vow to return and instead opt for the Beef Tartare, Bagna Cauda, Pangrattato and Yolk ($24). Upon stabbing the egg yolk and mixing all the ingredients into the river of gooey egg yolk, we sit in silence at the first bite before eagerly reaching for seconds and scraping the plate clean.

The Pork, Prawn and Truffle Tortellini ($28) is a special listed on the wall and it was fan-bloody-tastic. The heady perfume of the truffle (from Tas) is intoxicating and each tortellini are perfect flavour bomb packages bathing in a ridiculously delicious bone broth. I would’ve loved if this was served in a bowl so I could spoon every last drop!

We couldn’t resist also ordering the Cavatelli, Octopus, Bone Marrow, Scrumphs ($24) because well, BONE MARROW! We loved the tiny curls of the cavatelli pasta shells and the slight chew from the octopus buried within, but oh my those globules of bone marrow- be still my beating heart! The ‘scrumphs’ refers to the scraps kids called the batter bits in London. The Wine Rooms’ take is a gluten free, lightly fried version made with squid ink to provide a nice crunchy element.

Aaaand of course we had to get dessert! The Zokoko Chocolate Tiramisu ($16) is a generous serve, a fluffy mound of mascarpone and cream, coffee soaked ladies fingers and a thin, crisp layer of Zokoko chocolate in the middle. And squee how cute are the plates with the running sausage??

The Wine Room takes bookings but be sure you select the right location and not the main dining room! The service and the food are top notch, we’ll definitely be back try the cured meats!

The Wine Room (@ The Dolphin Hotel)
412 Crown St,
Surry Hills

Trading Hours:
Wine Room: 7 days from 5pm
Main Dining Room: Lunch: Fri – Sun: 12pm – 3pm
Dinner: Wed – Sun: from 5pm